Building and Landscaping Tools.

Before you begin any building work in your garden, a collection of suitable tools and equipment should be aquired. Some of these may already be in your collection and some larger items like a cement mixer or scaffold tower you may have to hire.

Pickaxe.
Heavy tool with a long curved steel head and wooden handle. Used for breaking up compacted soil, or brickwork.

Large crowbar.
Thick steel bar, used for levering slabs or concrete.

Small pry bar,
Used for opening packing cases or levering nails from wood.

Shovel.
Consisting of a broad blade attached to a strong handle. Used for moving loose materials, quickly.

Sledgehammer.
Large Heavy Hammer with long handle. Used for breaking up rocks and concrete, and for driving stakes into the ground.

Spirit Level.
Made in wood or metal has a tube liquid filled with air bubble resting between two marks. For checking whether a surface is exactly horizontal.

Builders Trowels.
Brick trowel and pointing trowel. Brick trowel used for laying mortar. Smaller pointing trowel used for finishing and pointing brickwork.

Builders Line.
Strong hemp line attached to pointed steel pins. Used for setting out walls, paths and brickwork.

Lump Hammer.
Heavy hammer with short handle. Used with bolster for brick and slab cutting.

Bolster Chisel.
Wide chisel, used for cutting slabs and bricks.

Float.
Rectangular shaped thin metal or plastic plate with attached handle. Used for levelling plaster or wet cement.

Measuring Tape.
Long metal or fabric tape in a metal case. Used for setting out garden projects accurately.

A tidy vegetable patch in Lower Broadheath, Worcester.

Elgar’s rose, in Max’s Lower Broadheath, Worcester. Garden.

In 1930 Sir Edward Elgar visited the National Rose show at Central Hall Westminster. Here he saw the Gold Medal winning stand of Cecil Townsend of Lower Broadheath. He purchased all the displayed rose bushes for his garden at Marlbank. After 75 years one of these bushes survives and still flowers beautifully. Max

Growing Vegetables.

There are many people today who have never experienced the taste flavour and satisfaction of growing their own vegetables. The closest they come to picking their own is when selecting from the superstore shelves.

If you have unused space in your garden, why not have a go?

Most gardens should have some room for growing vegetables. The quality and freshness of produce from your own garden will be far superior and will not be found in any supermarket.

A well maintained vegetable plot could also be visually appealing.
Another advantage when growing your own, you can be certain what chemicals will have been used in the process.

Growing your own vegetables should be seen as a very enjoyable and relaxing hobby.

Choosing a Suitable Site

When selecting where to put your vegetable garden, the size and layout of your plot, will determine quantity and variety of vegetables that you will be able to grow.

Long narrow plots are sometimes easier to manage, than large square areas.

Consider the needs of your household. Does the family eat huge quantities of salad or do they prefer a more starchy diet?

More space will be required for growing potatoes, than for growing salad crops.

A small plot will have limited space, to grow all crops.

The position of the vegetable plot should be considered it should preferably be sited in full sunlight, and sheltered from the prevailing winds.

Sloping sites should be avoided but sometimes this is not possible.

A south-facing gradient if not too steep could be utilised, planting crops across slope.

Crop rotation should be carried out but this is not absolutely essential.

If you live in a flat and have no garden, a balcony or a flat roof, could be used. Plant in large containers or grow bags. Vegetables grown this way need more attention, but are still worthwhile.

Preparing the plot

After choosing a suitable area, begin in the autumn by clearing weeds. All roots of couch grass should be carefully dug out; even leaving one small piece can allow regrowth.

The whole area should then be dug over to at least a spades depth. This should preferably be done during the winter to allow the action of frost to have effect.

If the soil is heavy and contains a lot of clay, organic material, such as farmyard manure (if it is available) needs to be dug in at this time and for the best results, should be carried out annually.

Farmyard manure can benefit most types of soil.
The alternative is to use mushroom compost, although this can be alkaline. Manures will improve the soil structure but fertilisers will also be required.

Preparing the Soil for Planting

In the spring as soon as the weather is suitable, dig the plot over, and even if it has been manured, organic fertiliser, containing nitrogen potash and phosphate should be scattered at the required rate, and mixed with the soil.

Planting Potatoes

A good crop to begin with is potato; these will help to clear the soil of any remaining weeds.

The tubers are purchased in January or February. They should be placed in a light frost-free place to allow to sprout before planting.

They can then be planted in March if the weather allows. A sheltered spot should be chosen, as the new growth will be tender, frost can easily destroy your crop.

Plant five inches deep and twelve to fifteen inches apart, with the sprouts upward and cover with soil.

When the foliage appears, earth up to prevent potatoes near the surface turning green and toxic, if frost is forecast, cover shoots completely.
Continue earthing up two or three times until the rows are made into a ridge.

Early potatoes will be ready to dig, when they are the size of eggs, or larger. This will be sometime during June, depending on the variety. Only dig enough for immediate use

Planting Shallot sets

Shallots are sometimes preferred to onions because of their milder flavour. Their main use is for pickling.

Shallot sets can be planted in late February.

Set your line to keep in straight rows, this will make it easier to cultivate around later, plant half an inch deep and about six inches apart, and allow a foot between the rows.

A few weeks later check, if they have pushed up and loosened, firming may be required.

Harvest in late summer when the foliage has died off, lift the plants with a fork,leave to dry in the sun, later split the clumps up, remove loose soil and dried skin and store in frost free conditions until required for use.

Planting Onion Sets

Onion sets can be planted in early spring.

Plant in straight lines half an inch deep and three inches apart, keeping the rows one-foot apart.

When growing, water if very dry and hoe between to keep weeds down.

Harvest in late summer, dry and store later, in frost-free well-ventilated conditions, either in nets or plait together and hang up.

Planting Runner Beans

Runner beans are very tender, it is not safe to plant them out until all risk of frost has passed.

For the best results plant seeds in trays in a greenhouse or frame in April. Transplant seedlings outside when large enough.

Runner beans should be grown on seven-foot canes.

Prior to planting the canes are pushed into the soil two feet apart and four canes are tied together with twisted wire, to form a wigwam.

Another method is to push in canes a foot apart, in two rows three feet apart. Tying together with horizontal canes along the top, holding upright canes firm.

A row of beans, when fully grown can present considerable resistance to the wind, and careful erection is required to make a solid structure.

The seedlings are then planted with a trowel, three to each cane. Then sprinkle slug pellets around the plants. After the beans begin to grow, usually they will twine around the cane without help; sometimes you may have to assist.

When they are growing up the canes, apply fertiliser. Water frequently if the weather is very dry. Pick beans when young and tender, usually late July or August. Cropping should last for several weeks.

Contents.

Articles: /Greenhouse types./Styles./The coldframe./Cloches./

The Garden Shed in Worcester.

If you have a garden, large or small, it is useful to have a shed, it’s a place to keep the lawnmower and gardening tools, and somewhere to put those items you don’t use now but don’t want to throw away. It can be a good place to escape from the other half.

If you are thinking of buying a shed. First, where to position, should be carefully considered, most are located at the bottom of the garden, but if you erect nearer the house, it will be easier to provide a power supply, if required at a later date.

Next think about how large a shed will be suitable for your requirements. If you want to use your shed just to store tools, and the lawnmower, a smaller size will be sufficient. But if intending to become an enthusiastic gardener, or if requiring to use as a workshop, something larger may be needed.

After deciding where to site what size, and what it’s use will be, next think about construction materials.
Sheds can be made. In wood, metal or even concrete, but wood is probably the best choice.

Sheds come complete with floor, but if you want it to last, put it on a base, lay slabs or have a builder put down a base of concrete. Make sure the correct measurements have been provided. A good plan is to obtain floor bearers when ordering the shed, to be placed under the floor; these should keep it completely dry, prolonging its life.

The shed supplier should be able to deliver and erect, although putting up a shed is not a difficult job, it does require two able bodied people. The first option is best.

After you have your shed built, you can start to fit it out by putting up shelves and maybe make a workbench. Also put up racks for your gardening tools, to keep them tidy. A rack can easily be made out of a length of 4in x 2in with 1 inch dowels at 2 inch centres.
If a power supply is required, this can be done, by laying an underground cable from the house through an isolator switch connection, but if you are not competent yourself, you must get a qualified electrician to do this. A power point and a strip light can also be installed in your shed at this time.

A final job is to give your new acquisition a coat of good quality wood preserver, in the shade of your choice, and repeat annually.

Fencing in Worcester.

A wide choice of boundary fencing is available in Worcester; erecting should be well within the capabilities of the average DIY enthusiast.

Wire Fencing.

The cheapest is posts and plastic coated wire, or can be galvanised, but only suitable to define boundary.
Galvanised chain link with angle iron posts makes a tidy fence.

Post and Rail.

Wooden posts with two or three rails can be used with galvanised wire netting; this makes an excellent fence. With barbed wire added, will be stock proof. Make sure the posts and rails are pressure treated.

Picket Fence.

Vertical wooden pales spaced 2in. Apart, supported on horizontal rails. Plastic types available, requiring less maintenance. Neither offers much security.

Fencing panels.

Most popular is fencing panels, interwoven and close boarded. The best type is used with concrete posts, after fixing, panels slide in place. These can have concrete gravel boards along the bottom. This makes a good long lasting job.

Erecting a panelled fence using wooden posts.

Purchase panels and posts, allowing two ft. extra on length of posts, to height of panels, also if using concrete to fix posts in, have sufficient sand gravel and bags of cement to complete the job.
Begin by setting out where fence is to be built. If it’s a boundary fence consult your neighbour as to its correct position, and ask him to help. Always remember “good fences make good neighbours”.
When replacing an existing fence, use a builder’s line to make sure it follows line, of original.
Next dig a hole deep enough, and put in post, at this point make sure it is in the correct position, and conforms to height of fence panel.
Mix and pour cement around post, in wet conditions use dry mix and tamp firmly around post. Using spirit level, make sure post is vertical in all directions, and brace. Allow at least a day for cement to set.
Next offer up a panel and temporary nail to post, checking top of panel is level.
At this point you should be able to see where to dig the next hole. Place post in hole and check height with panel, making sure post is vertical, nail panel to posts, brace post when upright and concrete in.
Continue with remainder, keeping close to builder’s line. When fence is complete use capping strips to finish off along top, also cap posts.

Laying a Patio in Worcester.

A patio is a useful feature to any garden; there is a large variety of suitable paving
Available in colours, different shapes textures and sizes.

Tools required.

Wheelbarrow, Shovel, Pickaxe, Lump-hammer, Bolster, Bucket, Hosepipe, Builders line, Builders spirit level, Bricklayers trowel, pointing trowel, Plastic Builders float, Tape measure.
If paving a large area it is well worth hiring an electric cement mixer and a vibrating compactor.

Siting.

A little care is required when siting; a sunny position should be selected, preferably near the house.
Sometimes a patio can be situated in a quiet corner of the garden, to good effect.

Planning.

Measure the area to be paved and draw a plan to calculate how many slabs will be
Required, your local builder’s merchant will be able to advise and should have a good selection.
Order a sufficient quantity of sand, and bags of cement.

Foundation.

After deciding on position, good patios should have good foundations.
Begin by marking out the site, with marking paint or use a line of sand, and then removing topsoil.
The depth should be the thickness of the slab plus 1.5 ins. thickness of concrete plus 4 ins.for hard-core.
Make sure the surface of the patio is at least 6ins. Below the damp course.
Level the area using wooden pegs, straight edge and spirit level.
Lay hard-core 4ins. deep and compact firmly, preferably use a vibrating plate.

Laying the slabs.

Begin by pegging out the builder’s line, at right angles to the house, and at the finished height of the slabs, allowing a slight fall for drainage.
Next the slabs can be laid on mortar mix 1-part cement, 4- parts sharp sand. Use the builder’s trowel to spread mortar to a uniform thickness. Place slab up to the line, and ensuring a gentle fall, tamp gently with a rubber mallet until level, continue with the next allowing 0.25ins.gap and check with the spirit level. Continue until complete. After allowing mortar to set, usually two or three days fill the joints with an almost dry mortar mix, keeping it off the slab surface to avoid staining.

Container planting.

An attractive planter in Criccieth 2005.

Plant in containers.

An easy way to brighten up your patio is by planting in containers. Almost any plant or shrub can be grown in a container. Avoid bog plants, also very tall plants should not be put in tubs. Old chimney pots look very effective when filled with plants, but many other items can be used, or you could try making your own. Garden centres sell a huge variety of planters and tubs in all shapes and sizes, made in fibreglass, concrete, wood, metal and plastic.

Choose containers to suit your plants.

Select containers to suit your plants, for instance alpines are best in a tray or trough; they thrive in shallow soil. Plants such as small shrubs and dwarf conifers require deeper tubs.

Plan location.

Plan where you want to place your containers on the patio, as once they are filled with soil, become very heavy, and difficult to move, space is required all around for attending to the plants.

Planting.

When planting tubs and containers, place broken crocks over the drain hole, then add drainage, such as coarse gravel or larger stone. Next add the planting material, John Innes potting compost can be used but ordinary soil is an alternative, mix first with peat and add fertiliser. Always put the tallest plants in the centre of the tub first and continue placing smaller plants around until all space is filled.

Aftercare.

Remember to give a high potash liquid fertiliser weekly to keep your plants in good condition. Also never let the container dry out, water frequently, even if it rains; still use the hose at least two or three times a week.

Garden Walls in Worcester.

There are many excellent materials to build a garden wall, varying from practical to decorative.
Building a brick wall can be very satisfying as well as therapeutic, and is not as difficult as it looks.

Brick.

Facing Brick is sometimes available to match your house. Your local builder’s merchant should be able to help, could use contrasting colour.
Engineering bricks are strong and water resistant, They are sometimes used for foundations. Can be used as a soil retaining wall.

Natural Stone.

Many different kinds of natural stone, suitable for walls are available.
Can be very expensive, only use natural stone native to your area.
The most common is sandstone, limestone and granite.
The best looking limestone is Portland stone. York stone is the best known sandstone.

Screen Wall Block.

Pierced screen blocks are available in different geometric designs, make an attractive alternative to a solid wall.
Needs to be supported by reinforced pillars. Keep below five foot high.

Facing Block.

Facing blocks can be used for a garden wall, available with decorative surface. Reconstituted stone blocks also available.

Building a Brick Wall in the Garden.

The most important thing to remember, when building a wall. Good foundations are essential. For a wall 3ft. High the foundations should be at least 6ins. deep (8in. of concrete). And at least twice as wide as the wall.
First mark out where you want the wall using pegs and builders line. Dig out and level, using spirit level across pegs.
Height of foundations should be just below the surface. Mix concrete pour and tamp with a length of wood, level with pegs. Allow to dry for a few days before continuing. Next start laying the bricks on a half inch bed of mortar. “Running bond” is easiest.
The builder’s line should be used to keep wall in a straight line. The spirit level is used to keep wall vertical and horizontal.
When reaching the second course, a brick will have to be chopped in half, to ensure joints do not coincide, (use a lump hammer and a bolster to do this).
Continue using spirit level, tamping bricks with trowel handle, until level, and keeping close to the line
Finish the wall by pointing, gaps in the mortar can be made good with mortar using the pointing trowel.

Garden Pools in Worcester.

An ornamental garden pool can make a useful and interesting addition to most gardens.
Small gardens are not really suitable for a pool although a water feature could be made out of a half barrel, with a suitable liner, it will not be large enough for fish to survive.
If you have small children a pool should not be considered, because of the safety aspect.

Siting a pool.

A pool should be sited away from trees, in an open position, and where it will be in sunlight for at least half a day.
Try to site the pool relative to the surrounding garden, and where it will be a decorative feature.
A pool can reflect garden plants or feature such as a statue. And can become the focal point of the garden.

Constructing a pool.

After deciding on a suitable site, first mark out the shape of the pool. An easy way is to use the hosepipe, and lay it in the shape required, before digging the soil out.
You could of course use a preformed shell, but as with all pools, must be perfectly level.
After making the required shape, tap in four pegs around the perimeter, and level using a spirit level and a length of straight timber.
Dig out the pool and slope the sides. A shelve could be left 9ins. Wide by 9ins. Deep, to allow marginal planting. After digging out to the required depth, usually about two ft.put a layer of sand in the bottom and around the sloping sides use loft insulation, or you could use the special under lining quilt.
Next unfold the butyl liner, and place in the excavation, making sure the liner is equally positioned around the pool. Begin to fill the pool slowly removing any creases that form.
When the pool is full, trim off surplus liner. Finish off around the top of the pool by bedding coping stones in mortar, overlapping edge.

Mower Types.

There are many lawnmowers on the market in all shapes and sizes’,
choosing a mower depends on the size of your lawn. If your lawn is small, a push mower may be adequate, this can be hard work but it is cheaper than the gym.
A powered mower is an alternative and can be electric or petrol.
With an electric mower, consider if you have a suitable power point and how long a cable is required, a trailing lead can be a nuisance, great care must be taken to avoid running over and cutting the cable, always use a RCD.

Electric Mowers.

Electric mowers are available in cylinder type with grass collector and wheeled rotary, also hover rotary.
The electric cylinder mower gives a better finish than the rotary type, but only suitable on smaller lawns.
The hover rotary is suitable for rougher grass and for mowing in awkward places and on steep banks.

Petrol Mowers.

A more suitable mower for the larger lawn is petrol driven; these are much more versatile than electric, and no cable to cut.
Petrol mowers come in cylinder and rotary models. They are available in a range of sizes. The cylinder types have a rear roller, essential if a striped lawn is required, although a rotary mower with a roller can give an excellent finish.
Petrol cylinder mowers are self-propelled while rotary wheeled can be push or power driven. Petrol hover mowers are the most manoeuvrable, and will handle long grass and steep banks with ease.

Electric and Petrol Strimmers.

A powered strimmer can be very useful in most gardens. The electric types have a nylon spool containing the cutting line, ideal for trimming around trees and awkward places.
The petrol types can have nylon line or a metal blade fitted and makes them extremely versatile, for clearing rough areas.

Electric and Petrol Edge Trimmers.

Electric and petrol, lawn edge trimmers are available; if you have a large lawn these can save a lot of hard work and time.
However they will not make as neat a job as lawn edging shears.

Lawn Maintenance tools.

Half Moon Lawn Edging Tool.

It has a curved blade attached to a wooden or metal handle, Useful to keep the lawn edges looking good; using this tool too often can make your lawn smaller.

Long Handled Shears.

with long handles alleviate stooping. Used for trimming overhanging grass at lawn edges, can be tiring to use for long periods.

Spring tined rake.

Wide rake with a long handle, with plastic, rubber or metal tines. Used for raking leaves and dead growth from the lawn.

Strimmers.

can be electric or petrol powered. Electric types only suitable for smaller gardens. Engine types much more versatile.
Used for trimming around trees and tidying rough areas. Can be hard work if used for long periods.

Scarifier.

Electric or petrol powered.
Used for raking dead moss, leaves and thatch, usually has a collector box.

Lawn Aerator.

Hand or petrol powered has hollow tines. Allows air into compacted lawns, encouraging growth. Ordinary fork can be used on small areas.

Spreader.

Hand operated, metal or plastic bin on wheels with handles. Used for accurately spreading grass seed fertiliser and granular weedkiller.

Roller.

Rollers can be made of cast iron or a better type has provision to add water to vary weight. Sometimes used to roll lawns. No need for these if your mower has a roller fitted.

Tools and Equipment for Maintaining Shrubs Trees and Hedges.

Shears.

Made with extending or standard length handles. Used for trimming long grass or tidying shrubs and hedges.

Powered Hedge Trimmer.

Available electrically or petrol powered Suitable for larger hedges, can have extension for tall hedges and conifers.

Rechargeable Hedgetrimmers.

Useful for small areas out of reach of power supply. Easy to use, but lack power for thicker branches.

Secateurs.

Parrot bill type has a scissors action, with curved blade. Anvil type has a straight upper blade that cuts against a fixed flat anvil. Secateurs are used for pruning roses and shrubs.

Pruning Saw.

Made with straight or curved folding blade. Suitable for pruning in confined spaces.

Bow Saw.

Has tubular triangular frame that tensions, replaceable blade. For trimming large, accessible branches quickly.

Long Handled Loppers.

Heavy-duty cutters with extending handles, made in bypass or anvil type. For cutting branches, up to one inch thick.

Long Handled Tree Pruner.

Cutter blade is positioned on a long pole. The blade is operated by a rod mechanism. For pruning tall trees.

Brushwood Cutter.

Petrol powered with metal blade. Suitable for heavy duty clearing of undergrowth and scrub. Efficient but can be tiring when using for long periods.

Chainsaws.

Petrol or electrically powered. Use for trimming tree branches and for felling and cutting trees up into logs. In inexperienced hands can be very dangerous.

Equipment and Tools for Cultivation and Irrigation.

Spade.

Available in standard and border sizes. Made in carbon steel, can have a non-stick coating. Also made in stainless steel. Used for digging and shifting soil.

Fork.

Available in standard and border sizes. Use for digging and cultivating heavy soils. Smaller border fork used for cultivating borders.

Hoe.

Draw and push hoes are used for weeding, sometimes used for forming seed drills.

Garden Rakes.

Made out of pressed steel, in one piece head or riveted, with wooden or steel handle. Rakes are used for levelling cultivated soil and for raking up debris.

Dibber.

Short wooden handle sometimes with a metal point. Used for making holes when planting cabbage seedlings.

Hand fork and trowel.

Used for planting bulbs and bedding plants.

Garden Line.

Length of strong hemp with two metal pins. used as a planting guide to set out line of plants.

Hand Cultivator.

Three, four, or five pronged tool with a long handle. Used for cultivating compacted soil.

Petrol Rotavator.

Rotovators can save some hard work, only worthwhile for larger gardens. Can chop, spread, and help weeds germinate.

Wheelbarrow.

Can be obtained with galvanised metal or plastic bin. The builder’s type with inflatable tyre is the most durable.

Incinerators.

Made out of mesh or dustbin design. Used for burning garden rubbish.

Shredders.

Powered by electric, petrol heavy-duty types are available. Quickly turn garden waste into mulch, which is then easily composted.

Watering Can.

Made in galvanised metal or plastic. Essential in drought conditions when hosepipe ban is in operation. Always use with a rose when watering plants. Can be used for applying weedkiller, but keep separate can for this purpose.

Hosepipe.

Made in different lengths and materials. Best types are through feed reels, permanently fixed near tap. When purchasing, make sure it will reach to the furthest point of your garden.

Sprinklers.

A few different types are available. Most common is rotary, covers a large circular area. Oscillating type is most useful.

Sprayers.

Small pump up type, or knapsack sprayer. Used for pesticides and weedkillers. Can also be used for fertilisers and misting. Knapsack sprayer only necessary for larger gardens.