Cars I have owned in Worcester with inherent problems.

I was taught to drive in a 1930’s Austin 10 Lichfield, this was a real brute to keep on the road due to worn steering and suspension, another slight problem was a slipping clutch, due to an oil leak from the rear main bearing, this could be alleviated by introducing a quantity of fullers earth into the clutch housing, but this had a limited effect.
Driving any other car after this was easy.

My first car in the fifties was a Ford Popular, it had a side valve engine with a three speed gearbox.
Cars in those days did not have much in the way of luxury; in fact to say they were Spartan would be an understatement.
The engine was a bit of an oil burner that is it required a pint of oil to every gallon of petrol. One day after slamming the driver’s door I was astonished to find the side window had broken from the shock.
Driving the car was a bit of an experience, the three speed box combined with a low powered engine made climbing steep hills interesting, usually changing into bottom with the engine revving hard for the ascent. Descending could be just as hairaising as the rod-operated brakes were very inefficient.

The next vehicle to come into my possession was a1950 Austin A40 van, this had an overhead valve engine, which gave it extra performance.
Another feature of this vehicle was a column gearchange; although this was a bit imprecise at times.
The old van had a leaky fabric roof, driving in the rain was an experience, an umbrella would be utilised to improve comfort.
Most memorable was the worn front shock absorbers; road holding was not the A40’s strongest characteristic.

A Morris Minor was acquired next and proved to be a reliable car, apart from metal maggots (rust) attacking the underside.
A problem with the petrol pump gave a bit of agro but a new set of petrol pump points soon put this right, and restored reliability.
On driving to work one day the front suspension decided to collapse due to a worn lower trunnion, (a common complaint with Moggies) this immobilised the car and also blocked the main road for a time.

During the sixties I owned a Triumph Herald, although this car had independent suspension all-round, with a tight tuning circle, the ride could not be described as comfortable.
The rear wheels leant out alarmingly when the vehicle was unloaded.
The main problems with the car concerned the suspension; bushes, trunnions and other parts required regular attention.
As it had a separate chassis, rust quickly appeared on the outriggers and side rails.
A good feature with this model was that the whole bonnet and front of the car lifted up to almost completely expose engine, making access easy.

In 1994 a Vauxhall Corsa 1.4 was acquired the Corsa was well equipped, comfortable, and had excellent brakes, but handling was not very good and lacked power steering
The Spanish made car had low build quality, and badly fitting doors led to windows rattling on all but the smoothest of roads. Economy was not exceptional and performance average.
The front tyres wore out fairly quickly due to misalignment, despite frequent checks being made.
At time of selling car at around thirty thousand miles, we had replaced exhaust tail box twice and had four new tyres.
The cylinder head was showing signs of seepage at the joint and clutch was on the way out.
I would recommend Express Factors, Northbrook Close Gregory Mill Street Worcester, for any parts you may require, they are able to source and supply any part for any car. Tel. no. 01905 616611

Contents:

Advice:/ regarding the MOT./Computerised at last./list of approved testing stations in Worcester./This MOT. check list could save you pounds./

The MOT. in Worcester.

Book your car for a MOT at the nearest approved Garage in Worcester, up to one month before current expiry date.
In order to avoid losing any unexpired portion of your MOT. You are allowed to have your car MOT. Certificate backdated for up to one calendar month, this unexpired portion will be added on to your new MOT. The testing garage must have your old MOTcertificate. to be able to do this, (make sure you take it with you.)

Having an early test can give you some extra time to organise repairs, if you think your vehicle is going to fail, or even time to purchase another car if your old one is scrapped.

At the allocated time drive to the garage for the test, if you live quite near it may be an advantage to drive a few miles to make sure the engine is at working temperature.

After booking in, ask to observe the test, there should be an observation area provided for this purpose.

Ask the tester if he could mark with chalk any components on the car that are faulty, this could be useful if intending to take elsewhere for repairs, in any case tester will provide a list of any failure points.

First details are taken of chassis and engine number, these are entered into computer and specification of your car will appear on screen. Your car will then be connected by wires and a probe into vehicle exhaust to a machine that measures engine emissions.
The result will be given on a print out, stating pass or fail.
A failure at this point can sometimes be very expensive.

The next part involves an inspection of the rest of the vehicle, tyres, lights, seat belts, door locks, are all checked.

A helper will sit in your car to assist the tester, he will operate the vehicle controls so that tester can ascertain any potential failure points.

Next the underside of vehicle is rigorously checked for corrosion. The main parts to suffer corrosion are suspension mounting points, floors and inner sills but wings, and wheel arches will also be checked.

Condition of exhaust will be noted, as will condition of fuel tank and associated fuel pipes, any leaks will attract a failure.

Braking system is checked for leaks and brake pipes are then inspected, for corrosion.

Power steering is also checked for oil leaks.

Any oil leaks on the engine will be noted.

With the assistance of the helper, handbrake linkage and cables are checked.
Steering is also checked, all ball joints are tested for wear also rack and pinion and drive shaft boots checked for deterioration.
Next wheel bearings are tested by spinning each wheel in turn noting roughness and movement.
Failure at any of these points can be expensive.

The final part of test involves brake efficiency test the car is driven rolling brake tester, brakes are applied and results are shown on a meter.

This will complete MOT. result will be a pass certificate or a failure.

Computerised at last.

2005 The MOT. test is to be computerised with a 30 million pound project in conjunction with Siemens Business services.
Every testing centre in the country will be installed with a pc, monitor, keyboard and a printer, Siemens will provide training and there is no cost to the garage.
The MOT. tester will have a smart card and will need a password to access the system.
Existing MOT. certificates will be destroyed, new style receipts, failure notices and checklists will be provided.
One advantage when the system is up and running is that specific information on a particular model will be available and will alert tester to rust and other problems with that model for instance, all cars that have been tested on the system will build up data.
In future car buyers will be able to check the MOT. history of their vehicle including mileage which will mean “clocking” may become more difficult.
Taxing your car will be easy and with proof of MOT. provided online and insurance companies working together to build a database, you will be able to tax vehicle without having to visit post office.

MoT. Testing in Worcester.

A44 MOT. Shop, St. Johns, Worcester. 01905 424751

B.C.P. Motor Services, Bransford Road, Worcester. 01905 429730

B J H. Motors, Tolladine Road, Worcester. 01905 27206

AE Clegg LTD. Hallow, Worcester. 01905 640228

Mintro, Padmore Garage, Worcester. 01905 25712

Motor and Body Repairs, Weir Lane, Worcester. 01905 423682

Oakleigh Garage, Hallow, Worcester. 01905 640294

Wyvern Service, Ombersley Road, Worcester. 01905 726162

Unipart stockist in Worcester, Express Factors, Northbrook Close, Gregory’s Mill Street. Worcester. 01905 616611
MOT. Check list.

Before taking your car for the test, here are a few checks you can do yourself.

All lights must be working, including flashers, hazard warning, and fog lights, also headlight reflectors should be rust-free, all lenses should be unbroken.

Registration plates (number plates) must be intact with digits spaced correctly.

The horn must be of correct type and required to be operational.

The windscreen should be free from cracks and damage.

Any damage in zone “A” larger than 10mm or combination of minor damage restricting drivers view will result in failure. It will also mean a failure if there is damage in the remainder of the area swept by the wipers larger than 40mm.

Windscreen wipers should be working and blades must be in good condition.

Windscreen washers should be working and reservoir filled.

Tyres must have sufficient unbroken tread (at least 1.5mm depth of tread completely across and around.)

Road wheels must be undamaged.

Rusty sills, wings, bumpers, and wheel arches, are other points to check.

Steering wheel should be undamaged.

Seat belts should be in good working order and free from fraying.

All door locks must be operational.

The drivers seat should be secure.

The exhaust must be in good condition and securely mounted.

Petrol filler cap should be original type and in good condition.

Handbrake should hold car on steep hill.

Footbrake should not be spongy or have excessive play.

Brakes should pull car up in a straight line.

Checking these items could possibly save you cost of failure.

This MOT Check list could save you pounds.

Before taking your car for the test, here are a few checks you can do yourself.

It is a legal requirement for all lights to be working, including flashers, hazard warning, and fog lights, also headlight reflectors should be rust-free, all lenses should be unbroken.

registration plates (number plates) must be intact with digits spaced correctly.

The horn must be of correct type and required to be operational.

The windscreen should be free from cracks and damage.

Windscreen wipers should be working and blades must be in good condition.

Windscreen washers should be working and reservoir filled.

Tyres must have sufficient unbroken tread (at least 1.5mm depth of tread completely across and around.)

Road wheels must be undamaged.

Rusty sills, wings, bumpers, and wheel arches, are other points to check.

Steering wheel should be undamaged.

Seat belts should be in good working order and free from fraying.

All door locks must be operational.

The drivers seat should be secure.

The exhaust must be in good condition and securely mounted.

Petrol filler cap should be original type and in good condition.

Handbrake should hold car on steep hill.

Footbrake should not be spongy or have excessive play.

Brakes should pull car up in a straight line.

Most of the items on this list are legal requirements, strictly speaking if your car has any these, it shouldnt be on the road.

Checking these items could possibly save you cost of failure.

Contents.

Buying.
Articles:/ Checking, /The road test.
Useful advice and information about your first car.
Articles: /Check tyres,/ lights, /winter conditions,/The cost of running your car.

Useful advice and Information about your first car in Worcester.

After purchasing your car in Worcester, there are a few essential things to remember upon becoming a car owner and driver.

Make sure your car complies with the legal requirements

Your car should not be used on public roads in Worcester without a valid certificate of insurance and current road fund licence.

The main insurance types available in Worcester are fully comprehensive and third party fire and theft.

Fully comprehensive is the most expensive as this covers any accidental damage that could happen to your car whether or not it is your fault.

Third party is a cheaper insurance and with an older vehicle, may be all you need, this economy cover, will not pay for damage to your vehicle if you are to blame for the accident, but will take care of legal requirements to other road users.

If you are involved in an accident in Worcester, make a note of the following points.

The name address and insurance policy number of the other driver and owner involved.

Make type and registration number of other driver’s car.

Names and address’s of any witness’s. Draw a rough sketch of the scene showing position of vehicles.

The date time and location also weather conditions.

Telephone the police if you think the other driver has committed an offence.

Telephone an ambulance if anyone is injured.

Your insurance broker will offer some good advice.

A current road fund licence disc relating to your car must be displayed in left-hand lower corner of windscreen. This disc cannot be obtained unless you have a valid certificate of insurance and if your car is over three years old, a valid MOT.

Your car must be in a roadworthy condition to be driven on the road, the driver or keeper is responsible for this.

Check the tyres.

Before driving always ensure tyres are inflated and have sufficient tread, legally there should be at least one and a half-mm depth of tread across and around the tyre.

Ensure spare wheel, is inflated and in reasonable condition.
The spare wheel, jack, and wheel brace are stowed away, usually in boot or sometimes in a carrier under the boot.

If in any doubt take the advice of your local Independent tyre firm in Worcester.

Check the lights.

All lights should be in working order; any blown bulbs and broken lenses must be replaced.

It is important to check stoplights are working, get someone to look at rear lights while you operate brakes with ignition switched on.

At this time also check indicators are functioning, including hazard flasher lights.

Familiarise yourself with position of bonnet release. [Front bulbs are usually replaced from under bonnet.]

Winter conditions in Worcester.

The screenwash reservoir should be topped up with extra washer additive to prevent freezing.

Keep an aerosol of de-icer and ice scraper in the car.

Check the car has sufficient anti-freeze added to the coolant

Ensure battery fitted to your car, is in good condition. Winter driving will put extra demands on car’s electrical system.

Door locks sometime freeze up, to help alleviate this problem, occasionally lubricate lock with WD40.

Ensure wiper blades are in good condition.

Ask your local Worcester garage to give your car a winter checkover.

Make sure sufficient fuel is kept in your car; running out of petrol in Worcester can be inconvenient and expensive.

The cost of running your car in Worcester, 2005.

Comparing the cost of running your car against the cost of public transport, a car may appear to be cheaper but consider what the real cost of owning and running a car is.
Making a journey by bus in Worcester may be less convenient but could be cheaper overall.

The main cost is the purchase cost of your vehicle, but you should also consider the depreciation, the loss of interest on your capital, also if buying on finance the cost of interest.

Purchase cost of vehicle can be low especially if making a second hand buy, depreciation will be low, but cost of keeping on the road may be higher as more repairs will be required.

A new vehicle will cost more to buy, depreciation will be higher, but running costs and repairs will be much lower.

After purchase, insurance is another large cost; the younger driver will attract a larger premium

Road fund licence should be accounted for.

Maintenance and running costs can be significant.

Cost of fuel, a small car should be cheaper to run.

Cost of servicing, tyres, exhausts, repairs, MOT’s even cost of parking, all have to be taken into account.

With twelve thousand as an average mileage, the annual cost of running a small car up to 1200 cc is likely to be between .20 to .30 pence a mile.

In 2004 a minimum cost of £2400 annually (£46.15 weekly) to £3600 annually (£69.23 weekly.)

In May 2006 according to the AA the cost of owning and running a family hatchback for 10000 miles a year has spiralled to £4350 annualy.

Travelling less mileage could easily double this figure.

Vauxhall Corsa SXI at Lower Broadheath, Worcester.
In 2001 a another Corsa was purchased despite being a little dissatisfied with the previous model.
The slightly more luxurious SXI. Has several extra’s over standard model.
This car has power steering and handles much better than older version, the bodywork fits and rattles are less, economy is excellent and tyre wear is negligible.
Bad points:
The micky mouse door mirrors protrude far too much, making fine judgement essential when driving in and out of the garage.
On this car during wet weather, the rear of the car and rear screen gets filthy quickly, filling the small washer container every few days can be a bit of a bind.
Just after purchase the car developed an oil leak, but the local dealer quickly rectified this.
Another small fault was an indicator switch that failed to cancel but our friendly dealer who also loaned a car during replacement replaced this.
A warning light came on; this involved another trip to the supplier, who again put this minor problem right at no cost to me.
7/8/05 a front spring has broken, the part fled off the car, making a loud noise. Although vehicle is less than four years old, the dealer was not interested in helping with replacement, even a telephone call to Vauxhall customer assistance failed to get any help, despite broken spring affecting handling.
This is the last Vauxhall I shall be buying, this model still has it’s problems.

Reliable Cars.

Another car I would consider as reliable is a Hillman Minx 1500cc I used this car during the seventies and found it utterly reliable.
I did about 30000 miles with no replacements being necessary other than usual service parts.
Although corrosion was starting to appear, around rear spring hangers the rest of the car was completly rustfree .
It was a bit of a plodder lacked performance, and a bit heavy on fuel, but proved to be an excellent buy.

An Austin Maxi was my transport for about ten thousand miles. This solid old car was almost completely reliable during the time I owned it.
The only replacements required during this time was a couple of suspension mountings and replacement of a gasket to cure an oil leak.
Corrosion was not evident during my ownership.
The vehicle was a bit on the heavy side and lacked performance and economy but still could be classed as reliable.

A Chrysler Alpine I owned could also be considered as quite reliable, apart from oil and filter changes and a set of disc pads nothing was replaced during 15000 miles.
A small fault with this car was the tappets, which regularly became noisy after two thousand miles, but this was easily rectified.
Corrosion was not a problem as the vehicle had been rustproofed from new.
The car had good performance, and reasonably good on fuel

A Vauxhall Astra 1.3 purchased new in 1989 also proved to be a good buy, during 50000 miles and fifteen years apart from usual servicing, I have had one new battery and four new tyres, (two tyres were replaced 15/6/05 at 48000 miles), also one part of exhaust system. The automatic choke has been changed to manual type, and I recently had to fork out for two expensive gas filled tailgate supports.
Rust has begun to appear at the rear of offside sill and wheel arch but apart from that the car is rust free.
The Astra still has good performance, but is not exceptionally economical.
Express Factors can supply any part for any car. The Worcester firm can be contacted on 01905 616611

Max’s motors.

We used to make thousands of subframes at Rubery Owen. I drove a prototype home in 1958 in a blinding snow storm from Walsall to Church Lane Lower Broadheath, Worcester. All the traffic was stationary and I just roller skated home. When I eventually reached Roslyn I parked up tight against the right hand garage door inside a giant snow pile. Jocelyn couldn’t see me. I took her for a ride around Peachley Lane and she said “Yes please I’ll keep it” She had to wait until 1960 for a van which had the floor cut out to take a children’s bench seat.Wish I had persuaded Issigonis to let me have his steam mini. My best car was a Volvo Amazon 122s blue and white,one of the first in England. I did 80,000 miles one year from the north of Sweden to southern Germany France and Spain exporting our components.
Max Sinclair

Amazon in the Snow.

Grimley 1963, more snow than Sweden for my Volvo. Max.

Worcester Ford Zephyr.

The flat ugly bonnet on Max’s MK. 4 Zephyr had it’s uses.