Growing Vegetables.
basil | 1/16/2006 | 10:40 am
A tidy vegetable patch in Lower Broadheath, Worcester.
Elgar’s rose, in Max’s Lower Broadheath, Worcester. Garden.
In 1930 Sir Edward Elgar visited the National Rose show at Central Hall Westminster. Here he saw the Gold Medal winning stand of Cecil Townsend of Lower Broadheath. He purchased all the displayed rose bushes for his garden at Marlbank. After 75 years one of these bushes survives and still flowers beautifully. Max
Growing Vegetables.
There are many people today who have never experienced the taste flavour and satisfaction of growing their own vegetables. The closest they come to picking their own is when selecting from the superstore shelves.
If you have unused space in your garden, why not have a go?
Most gardens should have some room for growing vegetables. The quality and freshness of produce from your own garden will be far superior and will not be found in any supermarket.
A well maintained vegetable plot could also be visually appealing.
Another advantage when growing your own, you can be certain what chemicals will have been used in the process.
Growing your own vegetables should be seen as a very enjoyable and relaxing hobby.
Choosing a Suitable Site
When selecting where to put your vegetable garden, the size and layout of your plot, will determine quantity and variety of vegetables that you will be able to grow.
Long narrow plots are sometimes easier to manage, than large square areas.
Consider the needs of your household. Does the family eat huge quantities of salad or do they prefer a more starchy diet?
More space will be required for growing potatoes, than for growing salad crops.
A small plot will have limited space, to grow all crops.
The position of the vegetable plot should be considered it should preferably be sited in full sunlight, and sheltered from the prevailing winds.
Sloping sites should be avoided but sometimes this is not possible.
A south-facing gradient if not too steep could be utilised, planting crops across slope.
Crop rotation should be carried out but this is not absolutely essential.
If you live in a flat and have no garden, a balcony or a flat roof, could be used. Plant in large containers or grow bags. Vegetables grown this way need more attention, but are still worthwhile.
Preparing the plot
After choosing a suitable area, begin in the autumn by clearing weeds. All roots of couch grass should be carefully dug out; even leaving one small piece can allow regrowth.
The whole area should then be dug over to at least a spades depth. This should preferably be done during the winter to allow the action of frost to have effect.
If the soil is heavy and contains a lot of clay, organic material, such as farmyard manure (if it is available) needs to be dug in at this time and for the best results, should be carried out annually.
Farmyard manure can benefit most types of soil.
The alternative is to use mushroom compost, although this can be alkaline. Manures will improve the soil structure but fertilisers will also be required.
Preparing the Soil for Planting
In the spring as soon as the weather is suitable, dig the plot over, and even if it has been manured, organic fertiliser, containing nitrogen potash and phosphate should be scattered at the required rate, and mixed with the soil.
Planting Potatoes
A good crop to begin with is potato; these will help to clear the soil of any remaining weeds.
The tubers are purchased in January or February. They should be placed in a light frost-free place to allow to sprout before planting.
They can then be planted in March if the weather allows. A sheltered spot should be chosen, as the new growth will be tender, frost can easily destroy your crop.
Plant five inches deep and twelve to fifteen inches apart, with the sprouts upward and cover with soil.
When the foliage appears, earth up to prevent potatoes near the surface turning green and toxic, if frost is forecast, cover shoots completely.
Continue earthing up two or three times until the rows are made into a ridge.
Early potatoes will be ready to dig, when they are the size of eggs, or larger. This will be sometime during June, depending on the variety. Only dig enough for immediate use
Planting Shallot sets
Shallots are sometimes preferred to onions because of their milder flavour. Their main use is for pickling.
Shallot sets can be planted in late February.
Set your line to keep in straight rows, this will make it easier to cultivate around later, plant half an inch deep and about six inches apart, and allow a foot between the rows.
A few weeks later check, if they have pushed up and loosened, firming may be required.
Harvest in late summer when the foliage has died off, lift the plants with a fork,leave to dry in the sun, later split the clumps up, remove loose soil and dried skin and store in frost free conditions until required for use.
Planting Onion Sets
Onion sets can be planted in early spring.
Plant in straight lines half an inch deep and three inches apart, keeping the rows one-foot apart.
When growing, water if very dry and hoe between to keep weeds down.
Harvest in late summer, dry and store later, in frost-free well-ventilated conditions, either in nets or plait together and hang up.
Planting Runner Beans
Runner beans are very tender, it is not safe to plant them out until all risk of frost has passed.
For the best results plant seeds in trays in a greenhouse or frame in April. Transplant seedlings outside when large enough.
Runner beans should be grown on seven-foot canes.
Prior to planting the canes are pushed into the soil two feet apart and four canes are tied together with twisted wire, to form a wigwam.
Another method is to push in canes a foot apart, in two rows three feet apart. Tying together with horizontal canes along the top, holding upright canes firm.
A row of beans, when fully grown can present considerable resistance to the wind, and careful erection is required to make a solid structure.
The seedlings are then planted with a trowel, three to each cane. Then sprinkle slug pellets around the plants. After the beans begin to grow, usually they will twine around the cane without help; sometimes you may have to assist.
When they are growing up the canes, apply fertiliser. Water frequently if the weather is very dry. Pick beans when young and tender, usually late July or August. Cropping should last for several weeks.
