Making a lawn.
basil | 1/4/2006 | 1:23 pmMaking and Maintaining Garden Lawns in Worcester.
Most gardens in the UK, large and small, have a stretch of grass as a feature. Your lawn may be the largest area in the garden. It is well worth spending some time planning its shape and position carefully.
Consider how a lawn should be sited to compliment the existing garden. Usually the lawn mirrors the garden boundaries, square or rectangular, but there is no reason not to have a round or curved shape. This can add extra interest to a garden. The curved borders can lead to a focal point, and will give an informal look.
A lawn should be kept as simple as possible, consideration should be given as to how difficult it will be to mow and maintain.
Site Preparation.
Begin to prepare for your lawn at least two to three months in advance.
If you Choose to lay turf or sow seed the preparation is the same. The site should first be cleared of all perennial weeds, and dug over to at least one spades depth, or if the site is large, hire a rotavator.
If considerable levelling is required, first remove and put the topsoil on one side to use later. Dig or rotavate the sub soil, remove stones, level with a rake, and consolidate, before replacing the topsoil.
At this point you may need to obtain more topsoil, (most garden centres sell screeded topsoil) this should be raked and any hollows filled and levelled. When you are satisfied with the levels, consolidate by treading the whole area with the heels, or the back of the rake. Then raking to a fine tilth. After leave the area for a few weeks to allow any weeds to appear, which should be removed.
If you are going to sow grass seed rake in a general-purpose fertiliser at a rate of 4 to 6ozs per square yard.
Seeding a Lawn.
It is cheaper to make a lawn from seed, also you can choose the type of seed, but alternatively you could use a top quality proprietary seed mixture.
If your lawn is shaded, special mixtures are available, although lawns will not grow very well in heavy shade.
The best time to seed a lawn is mid August to mid September, if the weather conditions are suitable, an alternative is to sow in the spring, preferably in April, but there may be more competition from the weeds.
Grass seeds will not germinate successfully between May and August.
The best way to sow grass seed for a large lawn is to hire a machine designed for the purpose. Calculate how much seed is required, allow one and a half, to two ounces per square yard, Using half the required amount, sow first in one direction, then sow the other half at right angles.
Sowing by hand is easier, if there is only a small area. First mark out a strip three-foot wide. Calculate the seed required for this, and distribute half in one direction and half in the other, continue across the area.
Afterwards gently rake the seeds in or sieve fine soil over. You may need to protect from birds but most seed contains a bird repellent, and this should not be a great problem.
Laying Turf.
The advantage of using turf rather than seed is the fact turf can make an instant visual effect the disadvantage; turf is a lot more expensive, cheaper field turf can contain coarser types of grasses and weeds, it will make a satisfactory lawn but require mowing more often.
The best turf is seeded or parkland turf, especially grown for the purpose; this can be the most expensive.
Turf can be laid at any time of the year, avoid very dry periods and extremes of temperature, try and lay just before a rainy spell. Begin by marking out the shape of the lawn, and start to lay turfs along the longest edge, firming as you go. Work from a plank when laying the next row, butting these together with the back of the rake. After completing trim the edges with a lawn-edging tool, by standing on the plank to form a straight edge.
Aftercare.
If the weather becomes very dry after seeding and germination is delayed, you may need to use the hose, always use a sprinkler. Normally germination will occur in five to ten days.
In a few weeks, when the grass reaches about two inches; it will be ready for its first mow. Make sure the mower is set high and is really sharp.
Routine Maintenance.
Mowing your lawn should begin in early spring, (March to April) and should continue until the growth lessens in September or October depending on weather conditions.
Mowing is required most frequently in humid conditions in spring and summer. Regular mowing encourages healthy growth, remember mow often and not too close. After mowing, trimming the lawn edges will neatly finish the job off.
As well as mowing, a lawn requires regular maintenance to keep it in pristine condition. Unless periodic feeding is carried out, lawn quality will suffer. Feeding will encourage finer grasses and eliminate weeds.
Applying a solid fertiliser twice a year, preferably with a mechanical spreader will help to keep your lawn in good condition.
Twice a year in spring and autumn, give your lawn a good raking to remove “thatch” with a springtined rake. If moss is a problem apply lawn sand, before raking. Petrol and electric scarifiers are available to make this job easier.





